Tuesday, February 16, 2010

"Turn Around Your Face"

I apologize for being so tardy with my blog posts. I know most of you have been constantly refreshing your browsers waiting for another issue of Cheese Grits. I'm kind of a big deal in the blogging world, so I get your obsession with my blog. It's cool. I mean...I do have like ten followers. ;)

It's been a few crazy weeks over here. Last Friday was the final review of our first of two projects in Studio. This meant a week of little sleep and little time to stay connected to my life outside of Rome. But, in comparison to the amount of time I had to put into a final review in South Bend, one week of working really hard seems like nothing.

I was able to take a break from the final push on my project on Friday (now almost 2 weeks ago) when a freak act of nature blew through Rome...SNOW! According to one of the administrators at school, it hasn't snowed here since 1986. Wow. That's almost my lifetime. When the snow started coming down heavily, a group from my class ran over to the Pantheon to see the huge clumps of snow fall through the oculus (basically an open whole/skylight) of the dome. I was a little underwhelmed with the snow inside the building, but was in awe of the sight outside. Just as the piazzas are intended in Rome, a crowd of people started filling the space in order to see the once a quarter-century event. It was was sa-weet. This is another item I can add to my list of "I didn't know I was going to grad school to ___." In this case, I didn't know I was going to grad school to move to Rome to see a beautiful snowfall that many Romans can say they've never seen before. It was kind of sad when only a after a few short hours of winter bliss, the sun came back out and melted the little bit that stuck. It's funny to me that I'm writing about how beautiful the snow is here when I almost cried the first time in snowed in South Bend. I knew there would be no turning back after the first snow...and let's be honest...snow in South Bend, Indiana is not the same as snow in Rome. Even though it's cold here, I'd rather be cold in Rome than South Bend. Right?

After the winter wonderland, the same group I described in my last post (including Angelo, our bus driver, and his re-tarded TomTom GPS) ventured down to southern Italy to visit Pompeii, Palestrina, Naples, Sorrento, and the island of Capri. We had to leave at 6 am (again) Saturday morning in order to pack in all these cities within the two day/one night trip our studio professor planned for us. First stop: Palestrina. Honestly, I was still half asleep when we stopped here on our way south, so I couldn't really tell you all the historical background of the city that I should have learned. I can describe to you in two words what I remember from the 7:30 am visit: icy steps. Palestrina is in the mountains and obviously got the worst of the weather that rolled into Rome the day before. Have I mentioned how many steps I've been climbing lately? So, for once, the physical exertion wasn't what got me on these bad boys...it was the snow and ice that covered the entire stepped pathway to the top of the city. I clung to the ancient walls for dear life trying not to bust it and tumble all the way back to the street below. I was mostly successful with a few near-busts. I don't know why they don't salt the ancient roads. Could it be because the salt would destroy what history has preserved for thousands of years? Eh - maybe. On that day and in spite of my obsession with historic preservation, I was still voting for salt.

After Palestrina, we went to Pompeii, the ancient Roman city that has been unearthed in the last century. This place was pretty sweet to see. Because the entire city was covered in the ash of nearby Mt. Vesuvius for thousands of years, this preserved the structure of the ancient city enough that one can walk the streets of a Roman town, step inside the forum where the citizens socialized, politicized, shopped, and worshiped, and inhabit the huge amphitheaters they built with their bare hands. The fact that what these people built over 2 thousand years ago still stands and still displays lessons of urbanism should make us really question the stuff we build today. Why is it that in America a building is only built to last maybe 20 years? Talk about unsustainable... Ok, I'll get off my soapbox now. That was not my intention for this blog.

From Pompeii, we ventured on to Naples, one of the largest cities in Italy. We arrived around dinner time Saturday night, and I got the vibe that this city was filled with kids and partiers. I kind of wanted to join in their "Carnavale" (basically Mardi Gras) celebration, but instead, my class went to dinner with just about the entire professorial staff for the ND Rome and Graduate program. I forgot to mention that between frantically finishing drawings for our review, we had to meet with a representative from the NAAB (the accreditation board that is reviewing the ND program this year to ensure they're teaching us all the stuff they're supposed to be - this is a really big deal, by the way) and the Dean of the School of Architecture since they were in town to review the Rome program. Our trip to Naples coincided with the undergraduates' weekend trip, so the six of us graduate students were able to walk the city and have a real Neapolitian pizza dinner with all these wonderful professors. Unfortunately, we had to leave the next morning, so what we saw in the dark was it. That was enough for me though. I got the vibe that Naples wasn't the city for me.

Sorrento and all the small, water-front towns on the Amalfi Coast that we visited the next day made me feel right at home. They were beautiful and had some of the most spectacular views to the Mediterranean. We missed the early boat to the island of Capri, so we weren't able to make it over there, unfortunately. But, the long, scary, treacherous drive we took overlooking the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast more than made up for not seeing Capri. I hope you look through my pictures on picasa (coming soon) to see just how amazing this road trip was.

After stopping in the town of Amalfi for a quick tour and a cup of coffee at a gourmet cafe, we all climbed back in our van to notice that Huaxia bought a beautiful piece of tiramisu. She proceeded to eat it off the tiny napkin while bouncing around in the back of the van. Meanwhile, our spacey professor realized she's eating something delicious without turning around from the passenger seat. In typical Huaxia style (she frequently says things in English in a perfectly reasonable order or way, but, to us, it sounds funny), she told our prof to "turn around his face" to see the tiramisu. He didn't quite follow what she is told him to do (I suppose he could have been focusing on the winding roads, but regardless, he didn't turn around to look at her while they were having this broken-English convo), so she continued to tell him to "turn around his face" as the rest of the group is dying laughing at this phrase she's substituted for "turn around." As usual, this was hilarious, and, since, we all have enjoyed using this phrase in everyday conversations with each other.

I think I've written enough for this post, so I'll save my new stories about Belgium, where we've been for the last 4 days with a different professor, for my next post. Stay tuned...

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

The ONLY thing I hate about Rome...

...is Laundry Day.
Our sorry excuse for a washing machine/dryer combo works when it chooses, clogs every other load, and doesn't dry worth a crap. I'm not exaggerating - I really think the clothes come out wetter after the "dry" cycle than when they went in. So, I'm left to hang-dry everything either in my bathroom (note: there is no shower...just a tub. oh boy.) or on the clothes line outside. I've never felt so energy efficient in my life. Ah ha! There's the silver lining...my carbon footprint is diminishing. Yay.

Monday, February 1, 2010

An Italian, a Korean, a Chinese, a Cuban, and four Americans...

The title of this post probably sounds like the beginning of a bad joke, but it was actually the demographics of the trip my class took to Umbria, the Italian region between Lazio (Rome) and Tuscany (Florence), this past weekend.

The Italian was our no-English speaking driver with a TomTom GPS that led us through a maze of obstacles to places like a road closed for an Italian carnival, gravel roads so old and desolate that they could have passed as early Roman roads, the Medieval streets of "super blocks," as my professor calls them, that are barely wide enough to fit a car through (it's common to have to pull in your side mirrors in Italian towns just to fit through), and a bumper to bumper traffic jam so bad it looked like a parking lot. I'm not just using the cliché of describing traffic as a parking lot, but it literally looked like a parking lot as all the Italian drivers turned off their engines, got out of their smart cars, and proceeded to socialize in the middle of the highway. This was so typical of the Italians. Any chance they have to strike up a conversation, they take - stranger or not.

The Cuban is my self-proclaimed "spacey" professor. His teaching style is just as spacey and fragmented, but the man knows his stuff. He often encourages us to work on "half moon" days because they are supposedly our "creative days." He's into all this philosophical kind of stuff...lunar phases, feng shui, ying and yang, etc. As crazy as these ideas are to me, they work for him and his way of describing things that are often not taught. He's an interesting dude to say the least.

The rest of the group is my studio class, 3 of which are my roommates. Needless to say, we are together a lot. My Chinese and Korean roommates are teaching me all kinds of great Asian things to cook. Apparently the minute rice or rice cooked in the microwave that my Mom and I have always cooked is no good. Who'da thought? I put my own southern spin on rice a week or so ago when I cooked all my roommates soul food. In this case, I made gravy to put on top of the rice. Naturally. Mmm, mmm good. Since the name of my blog is "Cheese Grits," you probably understand how much southern food means to me, but I digress...

Getting back to the trip...after leaving at 6:00am Friday morning, we arrived in Orvieto around 7:30am tired and groggy. Shortly after, the crisp, cold mountain air, with the help of a delicious cappuccino, woke us up. Orvieto was beautiful, clean, and surprising. Literally every step you take gives you another spectacular experience with the architecture, urban structure, or the people. Towers and churches pop up and are framed with each turn of a corner...it's so hard to put into words, so just take my word for it. It was an amazing town.

Next stop...Todi. Its large L-Shaped piazza fronted by the cathedral on one side and beautiful picturesque landscape on the other was amazing, but not my favorite...maybe we didn't stay there long enough to get see the best of what Todi had to offer.

We left Todi (all of these towns are within 20-30 minute driving distance, by the way) to go to Perugia to spend the night. Its large "corso" piazza which stretched from one church down to an overlook of the surrounding mountains was different than any other urban spatial type that I've seen before. When we arrived Friday night, it was empty and a little too vast, but the next day, in spite of the rain, when it was filled with people, it felt incredible. Lesson learned: you can design a wide street/piazza as long as you have people to visit and loiter in the space.

During this trip I got a little taste of what things are important to Italian hotels. Showers are not. Bidets are. When Huaxia (my Chinese roommate), JiYeon (my Korean roommate), and I got in our room, we were surprised to see two single beds and a bunk bed. Guess who got the bunk? This girl. And no, I didn't claim top bunk. As we were all getting ready for bed, a large puddle of water started coming from under the bathroom door...it was seriously a great flood of Perugia. Huaxia was taking a shower and the "tub" of the standing-room-only shower was only about a half of an inch deep...yeah, so water doesn't exactly stay in the basin. I, of course, started freaking out trying to dry up this tsunami before it got to my bag. Meanwhile, JiYeon, as nice as can be cracked the door and said, "Um, Huaxia...there seems to be water coming from the shower..." I can't tell you how hysterical it was to see this situation unfold. It got even better 5 minutes later when Huaxia tried to plug in her blow dryer and blew the electricity. That made two times within five minutes that JiYeon had to go to the front desk and attempt to charade to the Italian desk clerk our situation. Hilarious...let me tell you.

Quite possibly one of my favorite places I've ever visited is Assisi. This hill-side town was founded by the Romans and later became a pilgrimage site for the "Franciscans" (founded by St. Francis of Assisi) and the "Poor Clares" (founded by my patron saint, St. Chiara, or St. Clare). I'm not sure if it was the church with my name, the delicacy of the pink and white stone, or the narrow winding stairs that led you to the top of the hill and the Rocca (old fort/castle) but this place was unforgettable. The cannoli weren't too shabby either.

After Assisi, we ventured over to Spello, another hill-town close by. It had some cool things going on urbanistically, but the architecture wasn't anything to write home (or blog) about. However, there was a resident that is totally worthy of blogging about.

I'm standing in the street sketching (this is what we do - nerdtastic, I know) and hear a man cough/hack, so I turn to make sure this disgusting noise didn't come from Robert (whom I had lost and who frequently makes questionable noises), but I see a man about 70 years old walking down the steep hill. After he hacks his lungs up, he spits (gooo! I threw up a little bit when he did that), I hear something hit the ground, then see him running after whatever dropped while shouting Italian obscenities. Once the falling object gets close enough for me to recognize it, I realize the man accidently spit out his dentures! The old man was chasing after his teeth!!! The dentures looked like those little toy teeth that chatter when you wind them up. I kid you not; this was just about the funniest thing I've ever seen.

After this comedic experience, we went to Spoleto for a quick tour of the Cathedral Piazza and an awesome Roman bridge that spans across a ravine probably 600 feet. Apparently learning about landscapes is just as important for urban design as streets.

Who'da thunk that I would be hiking up mountains, crossing ancient bridges, watching old men scramble for their dentures, cleaning up a flooding shower, or going to Perusia to eat their wonderful chocolate for my grad school education? This really is becoming the experience of a lifetime.

*Please visit my picasa account for pictures from this weekend. I'm over fighting with blogger to insert pictures.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

How I've lived like a Roman today

1. Took the bus to school because it was raining. Otherwise, I would have walked the 1.7 miles.
2. Learned why Rome is walkable in my history course. Since it's founding, the Romans have designed cities for the pedestrian.
3. Walked to the open-air market to buy local fruit and veggies. Some of the best oranges I've ever had come from this market.
4. Walked to the grocery store to buy other necessities and vino. I've learned the only cheap thing in Rome is the wine...and I'm poor...so that's excuse enough for me to drink it a lot.
5. Walked, groceries in hand, up the 125 steps to my apartment. That was my upperbody workout for the day.
6. Took a nice, long siesta. Notice how after all that walking I have to take a nap to recover, or so I tell myself.
7. About to cook dinner while drinking vino.

:) Ahhh...life is sweet in Roma.

Monday, January 25, 2010

The Stairmaster

Well, I've officially finished my first week and a half of classes here in Rome, and I'm not sure yet if I should get credit for "going to school" here. Our classes consist of daily walking lectures, led by our brilliant professors, which I have to say, in some aspects I feel like I'm paying tuition for really, really good tour guides for a 3 1/2 month vacation. It's pretty sweet. Don't get me wrong, we're going to be doing a lot of work while we're here, too. But, who wouldn't want to walk the great city of Rome and diagram the streets while sitting in a sidewalk cafe...sipping on, what else...a caffe? Yes, this has really been my assignment for the last week. I would barely describe that as work. However, there is another aspect of Rome that is work...the climbing of the great stairs...



The only moment of my day that I have begun to dread is the time I turn the corner to see that the 125 stairs leading up to my apartment are...ugh...still there. Why is it that just when I think I've climbed all the way to the top, I break my concentrated stare (pun intended) at the ground (As an aside, I should tell you that Romans do not care about cleaning up after their dogs, and these dogs leave some stinkers right on the sidewalk! Point being, you must watch your every step or you might wind up with an unexpected "surprise" on your shoe.) to realize there are 2 more flights left to climb. Urgh! Damn steps make me out of breath and sweat everyday (but let's be honest, for those of you that really know me probably knew that the sweating was an issue before I even got to the stairs - ha). However, what really takes my breath away is the view from the top of the Janiculum Hill, the hill on which my apartment is located and one of the 7 hills of Rome.

I'm learning that these frequent "moments" are the ones that make Rome such a great place to visit and live. Every bend in the medieval streets, every balcony covered in flowers, every detail of the architecture provides an element of surprise and curiosity. These architectural and urban gems are making each day here different as I discover something new during my daily walks.






Posting pictures on this blog is almost more work than the stairmaster, sans the physical workout, so I am just going to keep my pictures on my Picasa account. You can find it here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Claire.E.Watson
Tomorrow we're off to visit Ostia, followed by a weekend trip to Orvieto, Todi, Perugia, Assisi, Spello, and Spoleto. I imagine I'll be walking more than ever in order to see 8 towns in 3 days!
Ciao Ciao!

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Planes, Trains, and Automobiles...

Well, I finally made it to Rome, but not without a good story...

After a quick tour of the Georgia State Capitol by "Represenator" Bob Smith (a story in and of itself), Robert and I arrived at the Atlanta airport around 5:00pm to scoot through security within 30 minutes. We, of course, found a place to grab a bite to eat and a cold beer to drink and waited for what we thought was a 7:30 flight. As we got to our gate, we realized the flight had been pushed back to 8:30. "Oh well," we thought; "What's another hour?"
After boarding, we crammed our bodies into two tiny seats in the center of the plane. In true character, I packed as much as flight regulations would let me, so I couldn't stretch out my legs the whole time because my oh-so-packed bookbag was taking up every last inch of the foot space in front of my coach seat. Reeeaaal comfy, let me tell 'ya. So this lasted about 9 hours, the last of which the pilot announced that we would not be able to land in London for our 2 hour layover because the terrible weather had shut down the airport temporarily. The second dilemma we faced was regulations which do not allow plane crew to work for more than a certain amount of time. This caused the powers-that-be at British Airways to divert our plane to Newcastle, England. The only thing I know about Newcastle is that there is a beer called Newcastle that I occasionally enjoy. :) I overheard one of the British flight attendants saying "I've never been to Newcastle in my whole life." This was not a good sign...
We landed in Newcastle with no guidance at all, only to be herded onto charter buses completely left in the dark. For all I knew, they were taking the entire group to Kazakhstan to be sold on the black market (that was for you, Dad). Luckily, that was not the case, and 6 cold, boring hours later, we arrived at the airport in London. Naturally, we couldn't get on a plane straight to Rome. No, we must wait again...we rebook our flight, and continue to wait to figure out our accomodations for the night. Luckily, we discover they are taking us to one of the nicest hotels in London...steps from Big Ben and Trafalgar Square. Room service, the TV in the shower, and the soft robes were all covered by British Airways. Yeah, so BA, thanks for making up for the 24 trip that should have only been 8 by putting us up in a 5-Star hotel. Too bad we weren't there long enough to explore the sweet area. Anyway...moving on...
We finally leave England the next day and arrive in Rome in the late afternoon. Thank you, God! This place lives up to everything I imagined...Can't wait to discover all it's wonders over the next four months!
Ciao!

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Arrivederci!

Top 5 Things I'm Going to Miss

5. Southern Food
4. Kelly's Wedding Festivities
3. My Parents' Back Porch
2. My Sweet Dog, Bo
1. My Family and Friends

See you all in May!