Tuesday, February 16, 2010

"Turn Around Your Face"

I apologize for being so tardy with my blog posts. I know most of you have been constantly refreshing your browsers waiting for another issue of Cheese Grits. I'm kind of a big deal in the blogging world, so I get your obsession with my blog. It's cool. I mean...I do have like ten followers. ;)

It's been a few crazy weeks over here. Last Friday was the final review of our first of two projects in Studio. This meant a week of little sleep and little time to stay connected to my life outside of Rome. But, in comparison to the amount of time I had to put into a final review in South Bend, one week of working really hard seems like nothing.

I was able to take a break from the final push on my project on Friday (now almost 2 weeks ago) when a freak act of nature blew through Rome...SNOW! According to one of the administrators at school, it hasn't snowed here since 1986. Wow. That's almost my lifetime. When the snow started coming down heavily, a group from my class ran over to the Pantheon to see the huge clumps of snow fall through the oculus (basically an open whole/skylight) of the dome. I was a little underwhelmed with the snow inside the building, but was in awe of the sight outside. Just as the piazzas are intended in Rome, a crowd of people started filling the space in order to see the once a quarter-century event. It was was sa-weet. This is another item I can add to my list of "I didn't know I was going to grad school to ___." In this case, I didn't know I was going to grad school to move to Rome to see a beautiful snowfall that many Romans can say they've never seen before. It was kind of sad when only a after a few short hours of winter bliss, the sun came back out and melted the little bit that stuck. It's funny to me that I'm writing about how beautiful the snow is here when I almost cried the first time in snowed in South Bend. I knew there would be no turning back after the first snow...and let's be honest...snow in South Bend, Indiana is not the same as snow in Rome. Even though it's cold here, I'd rather be cold in Rome than South Bend. Right?

After the winter wonderland, the same group I described in my last post (including Angelo, our bus driver, and his re-tarded TomTom GPS) ventured down to southern Italy to visit Pompeii, Palestrina, Naples, Sorrento, and the island of Capri. We had to leave at 6 am (again) Saturday morning in order to pack in all these cities within the two day/one night trip our studio professor planned for us. First stop: Palestrina. Honestly, I was still half asleep when we stopped here on our way south, so I couldn't really tell you all the historical background of the city that I should have learned. I can describe to you in two words what I remember from the 7:30 am visit: icy steps. Palestrina is in the mountains and obviously got the worst of the weather that rolled into Rome the day before. Have I mentioned how many steps I've been climbing lately? So, for once, the physical exertion wasn't what got me on these bad boys...it was the snow and ice that covered the entire stepped pathway to the top of the city. I clung to the ancient walls for dear life trying not to bust it and tumble all the way back to the street below. I was mostly successful with a few near-busts. I don't know why they don't salt the ancient roads. Could it be because the salt would destroy what history has preserved for thousands of years? Eh - maybe. On that day and in spite of my obsession with historic preservation, I was still voting for salt.

After Palestrina, we went to Pompeii, the ancient Roman city that has been unearthed in the last century. This place was pretty sweet to see. Because the entire city was covered in the ash of nearby Mt. Vesuvius for thousands of years, this preserved the structure of the ancient city enough that one can walk the streets of a Roman town, step inside the forum where the citizens socialized, politicized, shopped, and worshiped, and inhabit the huge amphitheaters they built with their bare hands. The fact that what these people built over 2 thousand years ago still stands and still displays lessons of urbanism should make us really question the stuff we build today. Why is it that in America a building is only built to last maybe 20 years? Talk about unsustainable... Ok, I'll get off my soapbox now. That was not my intention for this blog.

From Pompeii, we ventured on to Naples, one of the largest cities in Italy. We arrived around dinner time Saturday night, and I got the vibe that this city was filled with kids and partiers. I kind of wanted to join in their "Carnavale" (basically Mardi Gras) celebration, but instead, my class went to dinner with just about the entire professorial staff for the ND Rome and Graduate program. I forgot to mention that between frantically finishing drawings for our review, we had to meet with a representative from the NAAB (the accreditation board that is reviewing the ND program this year to ensure they're teaching us all the stuff they're supposed to be - this is a really big deal, by the way) and the Dean of the School of Architecture since they were in town to review the Rome program. Our trip to Naples coincided with the undergraduates' weekend trip, so the six of us graduate students were able to walk the city and have a real Neapolitian pizza dinner with all these wonderful professors. Unfortunately, we had to leave the next morning, so what we saw in the dark was it. That was enough for me though. I got the vibe that Naples wasn't the city for me.

Sorrento and all the small, water-front towns on the Amalfi Coast that we visited the next day made me feel right at home. They were beautiful and had some of the most spectacular views to the Mediterranean. We missed the early boat to the island of Capri, so we weren't able to make it over there, unfortunately. But, the long, scary, treacherous drive we took overlooking the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast more than made up for not seeing Capri. I hope you look through my pictures on picasa (coming soon) to see just how amazing this road trip was.

After stopping in the town of Amalfi for a quick tour and a cup of coffee at a gourmet cafe, we all climbed back in our van to notice that Huaxia bought a beautiful piece of tiramisu. She proceeded to eat it off the tiny napkin while bouncing around in the back of the van. Meanwhile, our spacey professor realized she's eating something delicious without turning around from the passenger seat. In typical Huaxia style (she frequently says things in English in a perfectly reasonable order or way, but, to us, it sounds funny), she told our prof to "turn around his face" to see the tiramisu. He didn't quite follow what she is told him to do (I suppose he could have been focusing on the winding roads, but regardless, he didn't turn around to look at her while they were having this broken-English convo), so she continued to tell him to "turn around his face" as the rest of the group is dying laughing at this phrase she's substituted for "turn around." As usual, this was hilarious, and, since, we all have enjoyed using this phrase in everyday conversations with each other.

I think I've written enough for this post, so I'll save my new stories about Belgium, where we've been for the last 4 days with a different professor, for my next post. Stay tuned...

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

The ONLY thing I hate about Rome...

...is Laundry Day.
Our sorry excuse for a washing machine/dryer combo works when it chooses, clogs every other load, and doesn't dry worth a crap. I'm not exaggerating - I really think the clothes come out wetter after the "dry" cycle than when they went in. So, I'm left to hang-dry everything either in my bathroom (note: there is no shower...just a tub. oh boy.) or on the clothes line outside. I've never felt so energy efficient in my life. Ah ha! There's the silver lining...my carbon footprint is diminishing. Yay.

Monday, February 1, 2010

An Italian, a Korean, a Chinese, a Cuban, and four Americans...

The title of this post probably sounds like the beginning of a bad joke, but it was actually the demographics of the trip my class took to Umbria, the Italian region between Lazio (Rome) and Tuscany (Florence), this past weekend.

The Italian was our no-English speaking driver with a TomTom GPS that led us through a maze of obstacles to places like a road closed for an Italian carnival, gravel roads so old and desolate that they could have passed as early Roman roads, the Medieval streets of "super blocks," as my professor calls them, that are barely wide enough to fit a car through (it's common to have to pull in your side mirrors in Italian towns just to fit through), and a bumper to bumper traffic jam so bad it looked like a parking lot. I'm not just using the cliché of describing traffic as a parking lot, but it literally looked like a parking lot as all the Italian drivers turned off their engines, got out of their smart cars, and proceeded to socialize in the middle of the highway. This was so typical of the Italians. Any chance they have to strike up a conversation, they take - stranger or not.

The Cuban is my self-proclaimed "spacey" professor. His teaching style is just as spacey and fragmented, but the man knows his stuff. He often encourages us to work on "half moon" days because they are supposedly our "creative days." He's into all this philosophical kind of stuff...lunar phases, feng shui, ying and yang, etc. As crazy as these ideas are to me, they work for him and his way of describing things that are often not taught. He's an interesting dude to say the least.

The rest of the group is my studio class, 3 of which are my roommates. Needless to say, we are together a lot. My Chinese and Korean roommates are teaching me all kinds of great Asian things to cook. Apparently the minute rice or rice cooked in the microwave that my Mom and I have always cooked is no good. Who'da thought? I put my own southern spin on rice a week or so ago when I cooked all my roommates soul food. In this case, I made gravy to put on top of the rice. Naturally. Mmm, mmm good. Since the name of my blog is "Cheese Grits," you probably understand how much southern food means to me, but I digress...

Getting back to the trip...after leaving at 6:00am Friday morning, we arrived in Orvieto around 7:30am tired and groggy. Shortly after, the crisp, cold mountain air, with the help of a delicious cappuccino, woke us up. Orvieto was beautiful, clean, and surprising. Literally every step you take gives you another spectacular experience with the architecture, urban structure, or the people. Towers and churches pop up and are framed with each turn of a corner...it's so hard to put into words, so just take my word for it. It was an amazing town.

Next stop...Todi. Its large L-Shaped piazza fronted by the cathedral on one side and beautiful picturesque landscape on the other was amazing, but not my favorite...maybe we didn't stay there long enough to get see the best of what Todi had to offer.

We left Todi (all of these towns are within 20-30 minute driving distance, by the way) to go to Perugia to spend the night. Its large "corso" piazza which stretched from one church down to an overlook of the surrounding mountains was different than any other urban spatial type that I've seen before. When we arrived Friday night, it was empty and a little too vast, but the next day, in spite of the rain, when it was filled with people, it felt incredible. Lesson learned: you can design a wide street/piazza as long as you have people to visit and loiter in the space.

During this trip I got a little taste of what things are important to Italian hotels. Showers are not. Bidets are. When Huaxia (my Chinese roommate), JiYeon (my Korean roommate), and I got in our room, we were surprised to see two single beds and a bunk bed. Guess who got the bunk? This girl. And no, I didn't claim top bunk. As we were all getting ready for bed, a large puddle of water started coming from under the bathroom door...it was seriously a great flood of Perugia. Huaxia was taking a shower and the "tub" of the standing-room-only shower was only about a half of an inch deep...yeah, so water doesn't exactly stay in the basin. I, of course, started freaking out trying to dry up this tsunami before it got to my bag. Meanwhile, JiYeon, as nice as can be cracked the door and said, "Um, Huaxia...there seems to be water coming from the shower..." I can't tell you how hysterical it was to see this situation unfold. It got even better 5 minutes later when Huaxia tried to plug in her blow dryer and blew the electricity. That made two times within five minutes that JiYeon had to go to the front desk and attempt to charade to the Italian desk clerk our situation. Hilarious...let me tell you.

Quite possibly one of my favorite places I've ever visited is Assisi. This hill-side town was founded by the Romans and later became a pilgrimage site for the "Franciscans" (founded by St. Francis of Assisi) and the "Poor Clares" (founded by my patron saint, St. Chiara, or St. Clare). I'm not sure if it was the church with my name, the delicacy of the pink and white stone, or the narrow winding stairs that led you to the top of the hill and the Rocca (old fort/castle) but this place was unforgettable. The cannoli weren't too shabby either.

After Assisi, we ventured over to Spello, another hill-town close by. It had some cool things going on urbanistically, but the architecture wasn't anything to write home (or blog) about. However, there was a resident that is totally worthy of blogging about.

I'm standing in the street sketching (this is what we do - nerdtastic, I know) and hear a man cough/hack, so I turn to make sure this disgusting noise didn't come from Robert (whom I had lost and who frequently makes questionable noises), but I see a man about 70 years old walking down the steep hill. After he hacks his lungs up, he spits (gooo! I threw up a little bit when he did that), I hear something hit the ground, then see him running after whatever dropped while shouting Italian obscenities. Once the falling object gets close enough for me to recognize it, I realize the man accidently spit out his dentures! The old man was chasing after his teeth!!! The dentures looked like those little toy teeth that chatter when you wind them up. I kid you not; this was just about the funniest thing I've ever seen.

After this comedic experience, we went to Spoleto for a quick tour of the Cathedral Piazza and an awesome Roman bridge that spans across a ravine probably 600 feet. Apparently learning about landscapes is just as important for urban design as streets.

Who'da thunk that I would be hiking up mountains, crossing ancient bridges, watching old men scramble for their dentures, cleaning up a flooding shower, or going to Perusia to eat their wonderful chocolate for my grad school education? This really is becoming the experience of a lifetime.

*Please visit my picasa account for pictures from this weekend. I'm over fighting with blogger to insert pictures.